Milano re-start –

An Etro preview shot exclusively for MFF

“It will be a strong edition,” he explains full of energy Carlo Capasa in this interview with MFF at the start of the fashion week of the re-start, with almost 50 shows in attendance and over 150 live appointments in total on 192. «Buyers will arrive from the United States and Europe, fewer from Asian countries and none from China. It will be about 50% of the presences compared to the pre-Covid, but Milan starts again ». The return to the calendar of Roberto Cavalli, under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi as of the first physical show of Fendi under the guidance of Kim Jones. The debuts see instead MM6 Maison Margiela, Luisa Spagnoli, Hui, Calves, Joy Meribe e Alvine Demanou House. And with the comebacks of Hugo Boss, Moncler e Alberta Ferretti (see article on page IV). “Also Gucci there will be and will do something important (as anticipated by MFF of May 14) », highlights Capasa. Among the collateral initiatives, the exhibition for the 40th anniversary of Emporio Armani, the celebration of 50 years of career of Chiara Boni and the event for the 60th of Marcolin.

Milan restarts with a record of fashion shows and physical events …

We have been the most digital, now we have to be more physical, with 152 events out of 197 appointments. Also bearing in mind that the digital mode is the one preferred by many young people who use this medium to reach distant audiences.

How did Italian fashion emerge from these 18 months of crisis?

It certainly comes out bruised, because fashion has been one of the industries that has lost the most, which has had to undergo so many changes. In 2021 it grew by 20.9% over 2020, but we are still 7.8% below 2019. The first thing to underline is that we need to push vaccines.

How do you interpret the data for this 2021? Does the lack of travel retail weigh heavily?

It should be emphasized that exports compared to 2019 are below 1.5 billion, which means that the other 5.5 billion we are missing are related to the domestic market. To recover we need to start traveling again, for people to come back to Italy to shop. So I am confident that if we all get vaccinated, there will be a return to pre-Covid turnover in 2022.


In your opinion, when will it recover at the system level?

In 2022 we will recover all the remaining part, which is 7 billion in figures. We lost 23 and recovered 15.5. However, we must insist on helping small companies and young people, startups, new brands who need help at least for the next year and a half.

Is this government sensitive about fashion?

The Mise-ministry of economic development meets various needs. Fashion is a very positive industry. Let’s not forget that this year the external balance should be 33.5 billion compared to 32.2 billion in 2019, because we have imported less and exported a little less.

Need more from the institutions?

In any case, fashion in Italy deserves more attention. I find it very nice that the president of the republic opened the Furniture expo. Because right now we need to give very strong messages outside Italy. It would be nice if there was a participation of the same level for fashion, with the premier or the head of state.

Has the industry learned anything from the Covid crisis?

The industry has learned a lot. We started out as Cnmi in 2011 to put a big flag on sustainability.

The Green carpet will not take place this September. What projects are there?

We will unveil the new formula this evening at a dinner in Royal Palace. Ours is the first Sustainable fashion award in the world. We have ten active tables where all the managers of the most important brands sit and develop new ways, new behaviors, new guidelines. (All rights reserved)

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