Restaurants, from Rome to Milan the challenge of restarting. I travel to the places that reopen, but always 4 at the table

Restaurants, from Rome to Milan the challenge of restarting. I travel to the places that reopen, but always 4 at the table
Restaurants, from Rome to Milan the challenge of restarting. I travel to the places that reopen, but always 4 at the table

Regularly spaced, with a limited number of seats – maximum four, if not occupied by cohabitants – at the table, and the obligation to wear a mask when not seated. Finally, albeit with strict rules, you can eat at ristorante, even indoors.

The difference was noticed, from the very first hours of the new measurements, on Tuesday. And, above all, it made itself “count”. According to Fipe data, 46.6% of bars and restaurants have only indoor seats. So, almost half. The proportion is confirmed in Rome and Milan: approximately one in two restaurants has been forced to remain closed due to the lack of outdoor spaces. Until two days ago. The sector then heaved a sigh of relief. The restrictions are now being discussed, starting from number of diners at the table. Only four. «The opening of the restaurants indoors is a breath of fresh air for the sector – says Alessandro Circiello, of the Italian Chefs Federation, well-known television chef – but the question of the four at the table must be reviewed. If distances are respected, what changes whether there are four or six people? Moreover, almost all of the restaurants, except for the starred ones, use the square, not round table, with which it is easy to ensure distances ». The debate is hot. There are several voices, between category, politics and institutions, to ask for a technical commission to raise the limit, allowing some “table”. For the Undersecretary of Health Pierpaolo Sileri, the “roof” of the seats is to be reviewed. On “Un Giorno da Pecora” he declared: “Frankly, I would increase them to 8-10”, and then liberalize them in early July. (V. Arn.)

CLASSIC AND EXPERIMENTAL

From carbonara to chef Scamardella’s novelties

Tagliolini with lime, clams and coconut milk are one of the novelties on Pipero’s menu. The Roman reign of Alessandro Pipero – who for about two weeks has also started a new adventure in Cortona, in the Tuscan countryside, a sort of pop-up until September 30 – therefore ranges between new creations by chef Ciro Scamardella but keeps the classics, now inevitable, such as “Pipero’s Carbonara”, a real must for enthusiasts and connoisseurs. «June 1st – says Pipero – for us it was like Easter».

Pipero, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 250 (Rome)

(V. Arn.)

ARTISTIC DISHES

In the team also a new sommelier

Doors open again at the Tazio restaurant of chef Niko Sinisgalli. And in a festive atmosphere. For the first two days, as Maria Rosito, manager and PR points out, all the tables were booked. The chef celebrates the restart with a new menu, studied during the lockdown, with dishes conceived as works of art. News, also on the wine front, with the entry into the team of Carlo Attisano, vice president of the Worldwide Sommelier Association and vice president of the Italian Sommelier Foundation.

Tazio, Piazza della Repubblica 47 (Rome)

(V. Arn.)

MEAL WITH A VIEW

Innovative flavors from the roof over the roofs of the capital

The Penthouse, reserved for the Les Etoiles restaurant, the roof garden, for the Bistrot, and the Rooftop, cocktail bar overlooking the rooftops of Rome. The taste is made in three at the Hotel Atlante Star, historic hotel of the Mencucci family, which, for the flavors, sees the signature of the chef William Anzidei. Italian cuisine is rethought in an innovative way, to look at history but also at modern suggestions, such as Tortelli with fresh hand-rolled pasta stuffed with confit duck leg refreshed with goat cheese and blueberries.

Les Etoiles, Via dei Bastioni 1 (Rome)

(V. Arn.)

LUXURY HOTEL

Mexico and beyond between spices and cocktails

New proposal for the luxury hotel Chapter of the entrepreneur Marco Cilia, who opens his Hey Güey rooftop. The cuisine is traditional but signature Mexican: the executive chef Davide Puleio entrusted it to the Colombian Victor Cuenca Lopez. The cocktails are signed by the new bar manager Joy Napolitano. On the menu, tacos, empanadas, quesadillas, nachos and tostadas, recognizable dishes but capable of surprising the palate, to give yourself, from the first taste, the feeling of a holiday in the heart of the city.

The Chapter, Via di S. Maria de ‘Calderari 47 (Rome)

(V. Arn.)

JAPANESE DELIGHTS

Oriental tradition from chef Priyan

“Carpaccio of the 5 Continents”, Sushi Kan, Lobster Salad or Wikakuni Kyoto or the typical Japanese pork: the restaurant of chef Wicky Priyan finally reopens its doors. From June 1st, customers can have lunch and dinner inside, respecting measures and distances. Not having an outdoor area, in recent months the restaurant has been open only with the delivery and take-away service (services that it continues to do).

Wicky’s Innovative Japanese Cuisine – Corso Italia 6 (Milan)

(R. Vec.)

A CASA DEL TRISTELLATO

The new delights signed by Bartolini

The newborns in the home of the three-starred Enrico Bartolini in four hands with the good chef Franco Aliberti. There is “Anima”, the gourmet restaurant with ten tables designed by Giò Ponti, “Vertigo, Osteria Contemporanea” and “Urban Garden Bar”: three sustainable concepts on the ground floor of the new Hotel Milano Verticale of Gruppo UNA. Together with cocktail bar and bistro dishes, there are two tasting itineraries – “Aliberti 2021” and “In Italia” – by Anima, as well as the rediscovery of grilled cooking.

Anima, Vertigo and Urban Garden Bar – Via Rosales 4 (Milano)

(R. Vec.)

AUTHOR FOR EVERYONE

Contemporary cuisine at the Navigili bistro

It is the contemporary cuisine bistro in the Navigli area. A cozy, simple and essential place with impeccable dishes. The chef is Marco Ambrosino who from Procida to Milan, passing through international experiences, takes care of his avant-garde creations in detail. From tagliolini with melting leek to propellers with herring and asparagus, from grilled oyster to sweet “Chiajozza” (mantis shrimp, sea urchin). A signature cuisine for everyone.

28 Seats – via Corsico 1 (Milan)

(R. Vec.)

HELLENIC SECRETS

A Greek paradise between olives and typical wines

Walking through the streets around Porta romana, you come across this paradise of Greek food and wine. Innovative and refined. To welcome is Vasiliki, the owner, who travels through her “culinary fantasies”, from black Kalamata olives to salty Athinaiki, to octopus with honey. The restaurant has reopened both the internal room and the outdoor area, after months of delivery. Consultant is the good chef Gikas Xenakis. The ingredients and wines come from Greece.

Vasiliki Kouzina – Via Clusone, 6 (Milan)

(R. Vec.)


Last updated: Thursday 3 June 2021, 08:19

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