Modena, the coffee is served amaro: the cup rises to 1.20 euros

Modena, the coffee is served amaro: the cup rises to 1.20 euros
Modena, the coffee is served amaro: the cup rises to 1.20 euros

MODENA. From January 1st, some bars started in the historic center. In corso Canalchiaro, almost all of them have adjusted to the new price: 1.20 euros. And now many bar managers are thinking of adapting to this increase in the price of the cup of coffee. At the extremes, someone withstands 1 euro round, many at 1.10 and there are those who snatch forward at 1.30. The expensive coffee is served. And it is bitter for everyone.

The reason comes from afar. There are those who call for the chaos of logistics after the Suez crisis. There are those who remember climate issues: too much drought, deadly frosts. «They are stories, all stories – Dante Cagliari, owner of the homonymous roasting company and of the Caffè L’Antico, cuts short – the truth is that we are in the midst of financial speculation and one about containers. We ourselves are affected by the effects of this situation. I had to raise the price of coffee by one and a half euros per kilo. Coffee production is always the same. On the other hand, transport, mainly in the hands of the Chinese, has gone from 700 to 7 thousand euros per container. Ten times. And now the American producers are raising up to 10 thousand euros to take stocks. In addition, covid has cut down on consumption at bars. It is a difficult time ».

If speculation on commodities has led to an abundant doubling of the price in one year on the world futures markets, as has not happened for at least ten years, it is the managers of the premises who suffer the consequences. Paolo Reggiani, owner of the I Laghi di Campogalliano restaurant and provincial vice-president of Fipe Confcommercio of Modena explains: “Our sector, from bars to restaurants, is particular: we are not used to making estimates on activities and therefore we get these increases from a moment to the next. Obviously the most serious are the bills with doubled costs. But the increases in coffee are also significant: from 5 to 15% for us wholesale, when we buy it from the roaster. In reality there have always been increases in coffee but they were tweaks up to 3%. Instead this is a very important increase. For the customer, a raise at the counter is also a psychological increase. Going towards a euro and a half per cup seems an exaggeration but in reality it should cost this way. The increases are therefore contained while the wholesale ones ultimately fall on the operators of the shops, at a time when customers are decreasing due to the pandemic ».

In the city, the price landscape is more or less uniform. The reference cost per cup is now becoming € 1.20, compared to € 1.10 in recent years. There are those who have applied the increase to the first of the year and those this week and those who are about to do so. But it doesn’t matter: in the end you can feel the expense. Explains Stefano, owner of the Mexican roasting company in via Farini who, precisely due to the diversification and quality of the product, is a thermometer in this sector: «I state that we manage ourselves because we are an independent roasting company. The increases are undeniable but for the moment with great effort I can manage the increased costs even if I will be forced to apply a small update in the coming weeks. Speculation, increased transport, price increases … There is little to do if you do not want to work in the garage. For me, the basic price is still just 1 euro (just because I put my hand on my heart) and 1.10 for gourmet coffee. But I understand the other colleagues very well ».

Wholesale coffee increased by one and a half euros per kilo. And with a kilo you make 100-150 cups. So those 10 cents offset the expenses and stem other increases, such as that of sugar. “The customers, however, have been prepared,” adds Gianna of via Canalino. And there were those who had already raised the price. Monica of Caffè Giusti explains: «We have cost 1.20 for years, but now we will not increase it for sure. With the Covid crisis we would only lose customers “.

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