Bologna, 29 April 2021 – Artisan workshops, shops with a retro atmosphere where master ice cream makers revive forgotten tastes and, at the same time, engage in daring experiments: a Bologna there are many excellent ice cream parlors, but there are only three that have won the coveted recognition of ‘three cones‘in the guide’Ice cream shops of Italy 2021‘by Gambero Rosso, recently published. Cremeria Santo Stefano, Cremeria Scirocco and Stefino: the weekend of May 1st can, therefore, turn into a delicious opportunity to complete a high-calorie itinerary.
Cremeria Santo Stefano
Sinceinauguration in 2006, the owners Gianni and Marzia Cavallari, together with his son ice cream maker Mattia, have tenaciously pursued the goal of creating a completely natural ice cream. To achieve it, the three focused on research and enhancement of ancient fruits and spices. Among the flavors that most adhere to this ideal, the Gambero Rosso guide points out salted pistachio, Venturina peanut, white coffee. But not to be missed are the ricotta (from the Ca ‘Bortolani dairy) with caramelized figs; milk and linden (with mozzarella and infusion of linden flowers and leaves); the hazelnut sorbet of Cravanzana. Also surprising are the reinterpretations of some ‘classics’, such as strawberry tiramisu; the dear old ‘malaga’ taste, with Marsala cream and raisins macerated in agricultural rum; the ‘biancomangiare’ with Noto almonds and a grated lemon peel. The granitas are excellent and imaginative: with Moroccan tea, karkadè, Cantiano sour cherry. Finally, try the chocolate and pinza pastry, from macarons to pralines, up to nougat and large leavened products.
Sixteen years ago, he preferred to venture into the world of ice cream rather than accepting a secure job as a computer scientist. A courageous choice, which over time has paid off: Andrea Bandiera, owner of the Scirocco cremeria, is the creator of authentic masterpieces of taste and is today considered one of the best ice cream makers in Italy. I ‘salad‘are his business card: among these, the Almonds and gorgonzola, the Pecorino and honey (with the honeys of the late Andrea Paternoster, different every week), the organic olive oil and bay leaf infusion, on a base milk. The sorbet universe this year shines with Chocolate Essence, a blend of 100% cocoa masses and a mixture of sugars for over 55% of total solids, not cold on the palate and of surprising intensity. Among other flavors, the severe judges of the Gambero define the Scirocco as ‘extraordinary’ (zabaglione with Marsala and inserts of tenerina cake); the Citrus biscuit (hazelnut, raw almond and caramel ice cream with Breton crumble, chocolate and citrus peel); the Pepè, with peppers, chillies, honey and balsamic vinegar. All the cold pastry proposals are also delicious and, on the leavened side, the new line with natural yeasts and wholemeal flours. Compostable packaging and takeaway proposals that can be ordered on the website.
In the pandemic year, Stefino’s owner, Stefano Roccamo, developed a widespread service of delivery by bicycle, to take his ice cream to the homes of the Bolognese. And he continued the research that had led him, in recent years, to win the highest recognition of the Gambero Rosso guide (3 cones out of 3). In his creations there are always proximity fruit – strictly seasonal – directly from small producers, fresh milk from the Bolognese Apennines, organic eggs, dried fruit and quality chocolate. There is also a great deal of attention to vegan proposals, to ensure everyone a delicious ice cream, both in flavors and textures. Not to be missed, among the raw milk creams (pasteurized in the laboratory), the ‘rude chocolate’ (with milk from the Valsamoggia goats and a pinch of salt), the Bolognese cream (with eggs and vanilla), milk and honey. Among the sorbets, delicious Yucatan (raw cocoa and lactose-free chilli pepper), raspberry, Ciaculli mandarin and pear and cinnamon flavor.
Gelaterie d’Italia 2021: the awards in Emilia Romagna
But Emilia Romagna has scored another five top awards, bringing the total number of ‘three cones‘in the region and placing itself third in Italy, after Lombardy and Piedmont (12 and 9 ice cream parlors mentioned respectively). These are welcome confirmations: ‘Bloom’ a Modena, awarded for the fifth consecutive year and also reported by the Lonely Planet guide (via Taglio 16); ‘Terminus’ a Reggio Emilia, founded by Simone De Feo, considered by the judges to be one of the greatest ‘avant-gardists of ice cream’ (via Simonazzi); ‘The ice cream theater‘, a favorite destination for lovers of tasty and digestible ice cream (via Sandro Pertini a St. Augustine, in the Ferrara area); the parmesan ‘Ciacco‘, specialized in ice cream’ without a doubt ‘- naturally good and without additives – and ice cream parlor’Sanelli‘ of Salsomaggiore Terme (Parma).
That’s not all: among the 37 great masters selected for the prestigious ‘Gelato del Pastry Chef’ award there are the famous Rimini pastry chef Roberto Rinaldini and Argenta’s colleague Mauro Gualandi, for years in the spotlight for its amazing savory pastry creations. Finally, Gian Luca Cavi, favorite pupil of Simone De Feo from Reggio Emilia and founder of the ‘Magritte, ice cream cubes’ laboratory in Fidenza, snatched the trophy reserved for the emerging ice cream maker. Open in the middle of the pandemic, ‘Magritte’ immediately entered the hearts of gourmets with flavors such as ‘Smiles of light’, yogurt cream with lemon powder and variegated shortcrust pastry; and the flavors that recall the French breakfast: ‘pain au chocolat’ (stracciatella of butter cream with puff pastry in variegation) and ‘cherry clafoutis’ (variegated almond butter ice cream with an almond streusel and cherry sauce, or cherries in syrup ).
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