For the staff of Terrammare, the restaurant al 100% Sicilian in the heart of Brera exploring the cuisine of Modica and Scicli, Sicily is certainly home. One evening Stefania, co-owner, restaurant manager and sommelier of the restaurant, explained to me that the name derives from that strip between the land and the sea that you see from the plane when you leave Sicily, in her case to come to Milan. I remember that I too saw that strip coming back from an incredible vacation, and in that moment I understood the soul of Terrammare.
But “home” does not necessarily have to be the Trinacria, as the real one is made by the people you fill it with. When you enter from Terrammare, in fact, it seems to go to friends, those who welcome you with a smile after a bad day, even if only for a glass of excellent wine, and from which you would never want to leave. Because Terrammare is a beautiful union between that hinterland that every Sicilian loves, that place to which he always aspires to return when he is far away and the sun and the salinity of the sea, for a story that allows you to touch centuries of cultures, traditions and Love. .
Terrammare has just received two important awards, which recognize the value, the efforts, the passion and which confirm that the restaurant team is on the right path: entered the 2022 Michelin Guide and obtained Due Forchette Gambero Rosso.
It Chef Barone has been carrying out a creative and Mediterranean cuisine project for over 35 years, which has found fertile ground in the Fattoria delle Torri restaurant in Modica, Ammare in Scicli and 5 years traveling in the Italian offices of Eataly, to which are added the teachings of Luigi Veronelli, his mentor now 35 years ago. He is considered one of the first Chefs of the “Contemporary Sicily”Which differed from the rigid canons of the traditional commoner one.
Together with the very good co-owner, restaurant manager and Sommelier of Terrammare Stefania Lattuca, arrive in Milan in via Giuseppe Sacchi, in the heart of Brera.
Stefania welcomes guests by giving a warm and never intrusive welcome. Entrepreneur and restaurant manager, in 2015 she participated in the Food Event Manager course promoted by Identità Golose, with which she continued to collaborate.
“After numerous experiences in Italy, I wanted to bring contemporary Sicilian cuisine to Milan, in step with changes, made up of lots of blue fish, respecting the bio-sustainability of the Mediterranean, creating an ideal union between land and sea.”Says chef Peppe Barone.
“An island within an island, the thrill of being on top of the boot, with the roots still anchored to our land and our sea to tell an identity made of memory, play, experience, ambition, perception of beauty and good. , of a magic that combines love and passion”Declares Stefania Lattuca.
The direction of the room is entrusted to Caterina Pulvirenti, who has been collaborating for over 6 years with Stefania Lattuca and Chef Barone. The kitchen brigade and the dining room staff are all Sicilian for a great triumph of the Trinacria.
The Terrammare menu
The kitchen brigade is headed by Palermo chef Ninni Radicini, born in 1984, generous and virtuous as his DNA requires. His technique, charisma and passion are expressions of a careful, rich and well-finished cuisine, which highlights the raw material and its natural expression, even in research combinations. Its gourmet extraction has been perfected over the years alongside Chef Peppe Barone, who is entrusted with the supervision of the cuisine of Terrammare.
“The raw material must tell about itself, so I have structured together with Stefania Lattuca a menu that tells of the treasures of our land with a cuisine that is tangible, easy, gluttonous, full of emotions. I believe that the cook must act as a mediator between the guest and the farmer by sharing his know-how and his culinary know-how: in the last 5 years a new Sicilian agricultural recovery movement is being born where young people have started to return home to cultivate local, authentic products; these are the ones I would like to bring to the Milan table“Declares Barone.
Among the most iconic dishes of Chef Peppe Barone, prepared by Chef Radicini, are the White and Red in Cevice, a tuna carpaccio with croaker tartare, with Leche de tigre, lime, lemon, soy, oyster sauce, chilli and mango; there Baroque caponata, with aubergines, Noto almonds, capers, celery, olives and Modica chocolate; Pasta with sardines, which he revisited in a modern way, with a fake anchovy mayonnaise; the Milanese risotto brought to the sea, symbol of the synthesis between Sicilian and Milanese cuisine; the Leg of rabbit in stimpirata, or sweet and sour typical of caponata; the “Milanese in our opinion”, Which aims to be a provocation to the Milanese classic and the blancmange; the fantastic Sfincione di Baccalà, which recalls the typical Sicilian dish, with cod, concentrated tomato, onion and Ragusan cheese.
To be tasted necessarily among the desserts Terrammare ricotta cannolo, which easily borders on perfection.
The wine list touches a large part of the Sicilian wine scene: there is a keen eye towards small emerging producers and towards some biodynamic realities among the internationally renowned excellences. Unmissable a selection of bubbles including sparkling wines and champagne and a space dedicated to the other regions of Italy and to foreign wines.
The design of the place
“The idea was to recreate an environment where hospitality was sovereign, as in the best Sicilian culture, but which came out of the canonical language of catering, recounting the experience of Trinacria”Tell Viviana Pitrolo and Danilo De Maio of Dark2, architects from Sciclitano. “We have used recycled cement tiles from ancient Sicilian residences, a symbol of our tradition to be used in a modern language, to create a sort of carpet that matches a modern microcement floor that imitates the tactile effect of velvet. From the entrance there is a series of perfect circles similar to a telescope that lead to the main room with a material effect and dark colors, to which we have added tables of olive ash wood to whole single pieces, to create that direct relationship with the nature typical of Sicilian culture”.
Boiserie and wallpaper are always an interpretation of tradition with a modern touch: the typical Sicilian embroideries are recreated with a mesh of microcement with a 3d effect, with an antique effect in the bathrooms. The table is laid out in such a way as to enhance the material effect of the elements, in particular wood, iron, water green, which ideally reflect the colors of the Mediterranean, the earth and the sea that give the place its name. A baroque touch could not be missing in individual elements such as the huge candlestick of the ancient halls rethought in a modern key or the glass lampshades different from each other, recalling the glasses. As soon as you enter you arrive with your eyes on the open kitchen, the central and creative core of the restaurant.
The workers and materials used for Terrammare are 100% Sicilian: from the modern design chairs chosen in four contrasting shades to create that out-of-line note that gives a sparkling and pop note to the environment, to the Cerruto di Modica ceramics that enrich the restaurant; from the hand-made dishes by Alessandro De Rosa of Thalass to the craftsman Roberto Savarino for wood up to the menu created by Pietro Bonomo of the historic Molithus di Modica typography.
Terrammare is open every day, for lunch and dinner. Because “There is no better sauce than hunger”.
The care of Indira Fassioni