Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani puts the emotion of the sea in his clothes and quotes Leopardi’s Infinity: “The times, in my opinion, require this”

Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani puts the emotion of the sea in his clothes and quotes Leopardi’s Infinity: “The times, in my opinion, require this”
Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani puts the emotion of the sea in his clothes and quotes Leopardi’s Infinity: “The times, in my opinion, require this”

This time he went out on the catwalk alone and it couldn’t be otherwise. There is everything Giorgio Armani in this new one Women’s Spring / Summer 2022 collection. It is the Armani thought that becomes concrete, the apotheosis of the stylist’s stylistic coherence, an exercise in style that shapes the fabrics of emotion, reifying the suggestions emanating from the sea waves in the background. They are clothes of the purest beauty, sublime garments with a metaphysical consistency that elevate the observer into a celestial, ethereal, other dimension, making him live a real experience of that Leopardian sense of infinity which inspired the designer. Thanks to the intimate and cozy atmosphere of the historic theater in via Borgonuovo, the pathos is tangible, so much so that King George’s eyes sparkle with emotion and the satisfaction of seeing that authenticity pays off, which being perfectly faithful and adhering to oneself not only rewards, but is the only way not to break against the rock of time that passes, indeed, go beyond it. And so, for the first time, he allows himself a habit, takes a bath in the crowd, goes out to take the applause of the many fans crowded outside of his building in via Borgonuovo 21, filling up with affection and support, the lifeblood to face these days.

Today we want to be sweet, to be in love and for someone to fall in love with us – says Giorgio Armani – we want to recover lost relationships due to the world, which is moving towards a questionable situation. We keep what we have with our teeth, we have the Earth: we try to save her and ourselves. The historic theater in via Borgonuovo was the background of fashion shows that many remember and that for me they represent the founding moment of my aesthetic. The decision to show again in this space is linked to the desire to recover a more intimate, intimate dimension with the Giorgio Armani collection. It is a return to origins, without any nostalgia ”. The only sense of nostalgia allowed is that for the summer just ended: the show opens in fact with a film of waves, slow waves, which slide lazily on the shoreline, dazzling the viewer with the iridescent reflections that the sun’s rays weave on the sea surface. Initially the sky is clear and clear, it is early morning, the night haze clears and suits in blue and white with vivid touches of red walk along the catwalk. The jackets are softly structured, the soft pants move to the rhythm of the music. “I want to rock you, rock you … resting on a wave of the sea, of the sea …“, Sings Nico Fidenco in the background, the first track of a soundtrack that refers to the classics of Italian song that speak of the sea and summer. “I love these pieces,” Armani confides. “It is a tribute to Italy, but I would not – he minimizes – set myself up as the savior of the homeland. They remind me 40 years ago when I started and these songs accompanied my work: this set of things convinced me to tread a bit “.

And so the garments flow one after the other fluid and synchronized with the evolution of the colors of the sky and the sea: from the light of the day you pass slowly to the warmth of the sunset, then the night. And that sea there is not just any sea, it is the Mediterranean, what Eugenio Bennato sings, crocevia of peoples and influences that we find in the arabesque forms of trousers as wide as skirts and suits with long tunics; in the volumes that are reduced to the bottom and are a counterpoint to the small beaded tops; in the scarves and crochet caps that keep the head always covered. And, again, in flat shoes, open at the toe or tied around the foot. The movement becomes impalpable in the sequence of dusty and airy grays, of pale blues and greens for essential jackets and long fluffy skirts. Color explodes in a kaleidoscope of gypsy references made of juxtapositions of red and purple, of spontaneous overlapping games. And when the evening comes, it’s a riot of bright, weightless clothes, that barely touch the body and in which the veiling of layers of tulle creates melting and surprising colors, with crystals and sequins that play with the light like the rays of the sun on the waves of the sea. It is a wardrobe that seems straight out from the wardrobe of Shahrazād, the Arab princess of The Thousand and One Nights.

“Mixing suggestions has always been part of my language: I pick up signs and colors everywhere, and then work in subtraction, purify, maintaining their echo – concludes the stylist -. This collection is a métissage: a mixture of influences, of travel memories. The colors light up, the rigor softens. The times, in my opinion, require this“. It is the creed of King George and the “shipwreck” is “sweet in this sea …”.

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